Friday, September 5, 2008

Oh There They Are! (the mud huts)

At long last I found them. Just before leaving Africa I had the opportunity to stay in a village, Katimba (it’s in the north-central part of Malawi, just west of Lake Malawi), that had mud huts and thatched roofs, just like what I had envisioned in my mind. I slept on a mat on a mud floor, had nsima for dinner under the stars, washed my laundry in the river, and was forced to all but abandon English in the all-Chichewa neighbourhood… but all was not as it seemed in the village of Katimba.

One hut over, was Mr. Mbewe who had nice couches in his living room; there was cell phone coverage in Katimba (but since there was no electricity in the village, people would go to Mbewe’s house to charge their cell phones using a car battery); the clothes that the girls washed in the river looked a lot like something from Winners; and there were a few people who spoke English. Now Katimba is about an hour-long bicycle ride on a dirt road from the tarmac near the small town of Nkhotakota in the central region of Malawi. But that didn’t stop the people of Katimba from being influenced by life in the city. No matter how far I tried to get away from the cities, I could still find some traces of the western life. I couldn’t find the completely isolated, rural village text-book definition of poverty.

So what is poverty? What is it that I have been trying to battle for the last few months?

LWS: I think the more appropriate question for me is who is poverty?
I have seen many different people who are struggling to overcome challenges that are preventing them from leading the life that they aspire to. To quote my friend Graham Lettner, “I see [poverty] almost everywhere - even in myself, even in the people of Canada. To me, [the poor don't] have power - economic, political, or of another form.” Here, in Malawi, these powerless people have many faces. Below are some of the people who represent poverty to me.

Benjamin: Benjamin is this lanky kid, about 14 years old, who lives in the house across from where I stayed in Katimba. He is one of the most curious boys I know. He did not speak English (although he learnt some in school), but that didn’t stop him from asking me countless questions in Chichewa about life in Canada, poverty in Canada, life in the Malawian city of Blantyre where I was working, and many other things about the world outside his village. When I asked him about his school, he brought out all his notebooks, and I saw that he was an excellent student, who got good grades in all subjects (except English!).
He is in standard 4 (many kids seem much older than their average Canadian counter-parts in the same grade), attending a primary school in the village. The primary school education is free, so I am pretty confident he will finish it. But I don’t know if he will ever get to go to secondary school (grades 9 to 12), which can cost about $200 per year. The closest secondary school is also about a 2-3 hour walk away from the village. And chances are he may be asked by his father to get right into work and take care of their farm.
I feel that if his family did not live in abject poverty and if there was an affordable school closer to the village, he would have the opportunity to get a good education and the power to make more educated decisions, get a good job, and support his family…

Abigail: One of the sisters with whom I am living in the shanty town of Chemosa in Blantyre, is a waitress at a local hotel/restaurant. She is one of the most cheerful people I know. There have been so many instances where I’ve said or done something awkward (which I generally attribute to cultural differences, but it might just be me!), and she would laugh the most genuine laugh for about 10 minutes. It was quite a shock for me to finally find out how terrible her work was – the jobthat she went to almost every day of the week. She was mistreated, paid very little (about $2/day, half of which went to pay her rent), and summoned to work at odd hours of the day (sometimes at 4:00am) without any compensation. In spite of all this, she would always come home and greet everyone with a smile, and then proceed to make some of the most delicious meals I’ve ever had. I instinctively asked her why she didn’t just quit her job and get another one. But then she pointed out how hard it was to get a job when you are competing with so many other unemployed people. This made it easy for managers like hers to frequently abuse their workers. “But Binnu,” she said to me with her unending cheer, “some day I want to open my own restaurant and make all the recipes my mother taught me.”

I would really like to see Abigail get the dignity she deserves, to get a pay that would enable her to have dinner every day, and to some day open the restaurant that she has always dreamed of owning.

Justin and Thamo: Justin is an illegal brick maker. He makes and fires bricks in the shanty town of Makata in Blantyre, although firing bricks is illegal in the city due to the government’s new rules to conserve the firewood that would be used in the kiln. His wife, Thamo, invited me to stay at their house one day. It was a modest little place with no electricity or running water. It had just two-rooms and a windowless kitchen. (I entered the kitchen once with Thamo and almost knocked over a large pile of pots, while she went around easily finding the plates on the shelf in pitch dark.) I noticed that they did not have any bricks in front of the house, which is where Justin would make the bricks. Thamo told me that because it was getting harder to get firewood, and because of the increase in transportation rates (due to rising fuel prices), they could not afford to make the bricks any more. So Thamo is now doing odd jobs (she worked as a survey-interpreter for a development worker once) to try to save up some money so that eventually they can start their business again. But there are other risks that may take away their hard-ended savings – their 4-year old daughter might get sick, they will have to rebuild their latrine when it gets washed away by the rain …

Benjamin, Abigail, and Justin – they are all amazing people who would have done great in Canada. Their poverty is the barriers that is stopping them from achieving what they can, the barriers that take away opportunities from them, the barriers that make their life vulnerable and precarious.
:LWS End

LWS: Who is development?
What does it mean to fight poverty? I met several people who are doing just that in Malawi.
Kate: Kate, the country director of Water for People – Malawi (WFP), is one inspiring woman. A local Malawian, just in her mid-thirties, she has a university degree (she was lucky to be born in a well-to-do family), several field experiences, and jobs with other NGOs under her belt. She started off wanting to get into pharmaceuticals but one fateful internship sponsored by CIDA (Canadian International Development Agency) gave her the opportunity to live with the rural poor in Malawi and changed her course for ever. Kate entered the world of development and worked on several water-related issues. She strongly feels that water and sanitation is an area that Malawians need to work on in order to improve their quality of life. It is very invigorating to hear her talk about her vision for water and sanitation in Malawi, her perception of the complex challenges, and her ideas for the different kinds of solutions.
Kate once took me to a model community, Angelo goveya developed by homeless women, who had pooled money together and along with some loans and support from WFP were able to build houses with eco-san latrines and start their own businesses. As she showed me around the community and introduced me to the different women, I saw great pride in her voice. She was proud of these women, was passionate about their cause, and was extremely glad to be able to support their efforts.
Kate represents the cream-of-the-crop of development workers. Highly intelligent and motivated, these are the people who will be driving change in Malawi.

Issa: Issa is a Malawian businessman, whom I had the fortune of meeting at the back of a truck (along with 40 other people and a pig) on my trip back from Katimba to Blantyre. He started off with nothing much, just a high-school certificate. But he had the chance to work with a successful Indian businessman in Malawi. He quickly worked his way up from an odd-jobs help to almost a partner. Using this experience, he started his own business. And now he shuttles back and forth between Malawi, Zambia and South Africa, trading various goods from hand-held mirrors to motors. One of his biggest risks he is facing is the rising trend in fuel prices – as transportation costs of his goods keep increasing, his profit margin decreases.
Several people are starting to take advantage of trading opportunities in Malawi – some of the things standing in their way are lack of capital, lack of a sound business acumen and vulnerability to market risks. But there are still people like Issa who are successfully creating wealth in Malawi.

Martin: Martin is a 23-year old upper-class boy trying to make it in the Malawian hip-hop scene. Yeah, I was surprised to find that out too – but he is good! He is also one of the most politically aware people I know. He can tell you anything you want to know from the time Malawi became independent to what happened this morning in Parliament. Recently he started attending college for a diploma in Community Development. Within the first week of classes he started planning out what his final thesis would be on. With his passion for development in Malawi and his in-depth knowledge of the culture and history in Malawi, I have no doubt that he will do excellent in his course.
Martin will go on to join the hordes of young people who are now graduating with diplomas that will place them directly in the NGO-field. They don’t have much field experience and will be up against tough competition for jobs, but I hope that all of them will share the same passion and capacity for change as Martin.
:LWS End

So what did I learn over the last 4 months from all these people that I met in Malawi? Well, a lot. But the one thing that really stands out is the realization that poverty is complex and will take a long time to combat, and the people on the forefront of this combat are the people of these developing communities. They are the real agents of change, but that doesn’t absolve us of our responsibility. As Paul Collier, author of the Bottom Billion said, “We can help the reformers in these societies who are struggling for change, that’s one modest role .”

What would this modest role look like? It could range anywhere from making more responsible consumer choices (buying fair trade coffee to ensure fair wages to farmers or driving less to help reduce the hike in fuel prices) to using the upcoming elections to make sure that our candidates have a plan for more and better development aid from Canada. Below are a few web-sites you can check for some inspiration on what you could do: [suggestions for action from Engineers Without Borders] [influencing the Canadian government] [promoting the cause of international development] [making fair-trade consumer choices]
drive less for poverty article [exploring other ways to alleviate poverty]

I strongly believe that volunteering in Africa is not the end-all solution to helping Africa. We need to work from here in Canada to help remove the barriers to development. Each of us can play different role depending on our individual priorities and capacity. For some of us, maybe going to Africa to work directly with their “reformers” is the most effective role, but for most of us in the long-run, we can best influence change by changing the choices we make in Canada.

The past four months have been an incredible learning experience for me, and I thank you for joining me in my journey. I am now back in Canada, and hope to continue my learning and work from within our country.

Zonse zabwino,
[all the best with everything]

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Tying Things Together

“And now I would like to invite Miss Binnu to come to the front to dance.”
Those were probably the most terrifying words I have heard in my entire stay in Malawi. I was busy working with my director to coordinate the representatives of different companies and the media reporters who had come to our big event – the Sanitation Marketing Day. Dancing in front of the excited crowd of over 1000 community members was the last thing I wanted to worry about.

John getting the crowd excited about hand-washing soap on the Sanitation Marketing Day

The Sanitation Marketing Day – what a day that was! It started at 7am with my co-workers preparing a touring vehicle with posters, banners and a loud sound system. They spent the entire morning going around our project area of Makata with over 10,000 households, dancing, playing music and telling people how the sanitation market was now open. John Chinkata, the unbeatable MC, (and the same one who would later go on to ask me to dance) was getting the crowds thrilled about latrines (he is good!) and telling them where they could buy good latrines and other sanitation products. He kept the momentum going as the vehicle arrived at the Makata school grounds, where we had a mini-fair set up to introduce the community to all the suppliers of sanitation facilities. Now John was standing at the stage that seated several dignitaries, and he was talking to an eager pumped-up crowd sitting in a massive semi-circle around the stage. On one side of the gathering were the booths of the manufacturers of plastic hand-washing facilities and soap and on the other side were the booths of the builders of latrines (who are also from the same community) and other organizations in the community. John got people to mill around and go to the different booths, and when the crowd looked restless he’d bring in an incredible troupe of dancers. I’ve never seen an information session be so energetic and fun!

Looking at all the suppliers and the people in the community I felt like we were along the right track. The market, if it works, will ensure that people will have ownership of the toilets that they buy with their hard-earned cash, and most of that money remains in the community since it is the local builders who are constructing the toilets. No need for hand-outs, and creating a sense of dependency on outside aid! Wow, what a shift from the traditional idea of just digging boreholes and handing out free water purification systems.

It’s not that digging boreholes and giving hand-outs is a completely bad idea. I think there are situations where you need to put in a lot of inputs from outside, but the key thing is community involvement and getting them to see the value in it. An unfortunate example of this is Mrs. Sowani. Mrs. Sowani is this great energetic 50-something-year-old lady who heads up the local volunteer hygiene group called Kwagwanji in the Makata community. I sat by her on her porch while she led one of their meetings. Her voice is earnest and she talks with genuine concern for the sanitation and hygiene situation in her community. She tells me with pride how she and her volunteers help sick people get to the hospital that’s an hour away, even in the middle of the night. But you can also see her frustration as she describes how people don’t always listen to her group’s advice to take simple steps to improve sanitation in their area and how her group barely has any resources to carry out its activities.

After asking her questions in my broken English/Chichewa combo, I found out that the group was originally empowered by World Vision in 2006 to make concrete slabs, which they built for free for people to construct pit latrines. These are basically a circular disc about1-m in diameter and 6” thick with a hole in the middle. Put this on top of a pit and voila, you have a latrine! It was a great idea, and it gave the group a specific focus. But when I asked them how many slabs they had made so far, they said 6 in 2006, none in 2007 and none in 2008.

It was disheartening. Here was a group of 10 dedicated people who really wanted to change their community and they seemed to have lost their voice. I think what happened was that the community was never really reached out to recognize this group properly and to recognize the value in what they were doing. The Kwagwanji were originally funded by World Vision, but funding only lasts so long. And they were not coached on how they could raise their own funds to sustain themselves. In fact, re-constructing the 2006 project in my head, I feel like a lot of money was poured into the materials and technical training for the project. But really what the project needed was more focus and resources for the soft side of the project – the capacity building, the coaching, the creation of an identity for the group and the involvement of the community in recognizing the value of their work.

But I think there is still hope for Mrs. Sowani. We can involve the Kwagwanji in our project, have them work as a promotion team for us, get them recognized through our events, coach them and train them during their meetings. I hope it we do it right. There’s a lot riding on it. Not just our target of 1000 toilets, but also the dignity and aspirations of hard-working people like Mrs. Sowani. whooooo… the pressure!

Mrs. Sowani and her volunteers show off their new t-shirts at our Sanitation Marketing Day

: LWS End.

So how did our project come to be such an innovative approach on sustainability? Our funding organization Water For People, a strong believer in sustainability and community ownership found this in line with their guiding principles. But how did their guiding principles come to be like that? Their donors, just average every day people who donated money/resources to a cause like so many do, in Denver thought it would be a good idea. (Water For People is a Denver-based organization with largely autonomous branches in different countries) It’s a very simple way of looking at the chain of decision-making and influence. But it made me realize how much I owed to the people in Denver the fact that I was able to be part of this really thoughtful and creative project.

It makes me wonder how much we can influence real projects on the ground by leveraging our donations. It’s just like voting for the government. We can change how things are done by choosing which organizations we support and what expectations we have from them. They have to respond to our choices and demands as donors, since all implementing NGOs need us to support them.

It’s an interesting way to look at all this development. Here I am, hands in the dirt working the little levers and knobs in the field trying to create some change. But I could have pulled bigger levers and turned more knobs from Canada just by using my voice as a donor.

Oh, and about the dancing? It was great! I pulled in a few kids and we danced up a storm to some Zambian pop. Ine mechanico wako…

Zikomo po werenga!

Sunday, June 22, 2008

I instinctively (my co-workers had given me the Chewa name of Nambewe, as in woman of the Mbewe clan and introduced me so to the students of Makata School) turn around and find a little girl in a bright new, severely over-sized uniform (these new uniforms were distributed to the orphans at the Makata School by UNICEF) running to catch up to me. She had this awesome grin on her face with this great big mess of crazy hair and this great spring in her step that made me for a moment ignore the fact that the money spent by UNICEF on her uniform could have been spent on training the teachers or something else more sustainable. I asked her the only questions I know to ask kids: “Dzina lako ndani?” “Zaka zingati?” “Uli standard chiyani?” Basic questions that give you no important information but totally get the kids giggling. As I see her getting more comfortable and starting to volunteer information, and as I start taking a shortcut path with her, I realize I am getting accustomed to Malawi
. Or maybe the Malawi I know is getting accustomed to me.

It didn't take these kids too long to get some dirt on their new uniforms.

Several of the people in my project area know be my name and most of the kids have stopped running away from me. (In fact the kids happily and unsurprisingly kicked my butt at football the other day.) And I now feel quite at home walking into the urban village (or Informal Settlement Area, ISA, as the officials call it) of Makata, where I am working with Hygiene Village Project, or as people call it “Hygieneh”.

To clarify, Hygiene Village Project does not only send its staff to play football with kids, but it also has them working on two projects:
a. Rehabilitating and building additional hygiene facilities at the Makata Primary School
b. Introducing the concept of sanitation marketing in Makata.

The Makata School project, like a typical NGO project involves quite a lot of construction work. But, following the encouragingly increasingly popular trend among NGOs, it does involve as much participation as possible from the community. So last week I was standing in a classroom watching the masons build the new urinals for the students, as there was a panel discussion going on in the classroom with the teachers and the parents trying to figure out how they will improve and maintain the sanitation in their school.

The second project on Sanitation Marketing is exploring an even newer trend, where the NGO is not involved in the construction at all. Instead, it acts as a facilitator – facilitating a demand for sanitation, facilitating the learning of toilet construction skills by builders within the community, facilitating communication between the builders and the rest of the community. We are basically trying to create a market where there was none, by working on both the supply side and the demand side. It’s tricky. I went with our director to persuade one of the big soap manufacturers in Malawi, Azam, to produce hand soap. Hand soap, in a country where even the most expensive private hospital in the biggest city doesn’t have hand soap in the washrooms. We are trying to create a behaviour change in Makata, by stressing on the importance of washing hands with soap. But how do we guarantee Azam a ready and profitable market? This is one of the issues we still have to work out.

The initial project was in fact much bigger in scope, covering all the informal settlement areas around the major cities. But the current impasse in the government due to differences of opinion on Section 65 of the constitution, the government budget still hasn’t been passed. Part of the budget is aid money from organizations such as the World Bank, which was the original donor for our project. Since then another NGO, Water For People, has stepped up to provide some of its own funding to get the project started, with a much smaller scope. NGOs across the country have to come up with alternative methods while some of their funds are locked up in the crossfire of partisan politics

of an infant democracy (about 35 years old).

(Last week they had a session where MPs could present Private Member’s Bills, which is an opportunity for them to bring to the table the issues in their constituencies. Sadly not one single bill was brought forward and all MPs sat back, too stubborn to proceed with the session without resolution on Section 65 or the budget. I don’t know of a time when our Canadian parliament was caught up in such inaction for 6 months. We are fortunate that our democracy has matured enough that we can hold our MPs accountable – all government officials are required to respond to all communication they receive from the citizens. I hope that everyone back home takes advantage of this privilege and writes to their MPs and MLAs about issues of importance to them. Please check out for pointers on how to do so.)

So what is my role in the middle of all these exciting happenings? Officially I am a field coordinator, working hand in hand with two others. That involves supervising construction work in the field, spreading awareness among the beneficiaries and facilitating discussions in the community. Unofficially, I am also working on helping Hygiene Village Project develop organizationally – this duty ranges from teaching computer skills to helping them with their planning and monitoring and evaluation processes. Both parts of my job have helped me learn a lot about Malawian culture, but they have also brought more questions than answers.

LWS: The Luxury of Having Dorothy as my Boss
My mandate for this placement is pretty straightforward – do what I can to help benefit Dorothy. For those of you who don’t know her, Dorothy is an EWB term used to represent all the people we are trying to help. It comprises of all those living on less than a dollar a day, but who are actively trying to better their quality of life – people such as enterprising farmers, innovative tinsmiths, and entrepreneurial women seeking to better their shea butter manufacturing process.

So here I am, on the ground eager to get my hands dirty and to spend long days trying to understand Dorothy’s life and how I can help. She is my sole responsibility for the summer (see figure). And I am privileged to have it so.

My fellow NGO workers have so many overwhelming responsibilities that I wonder how they can focus on helping a group of people when they themselves have so many stresses in their own life. To help you sort through my jumble of words here’s a story about my co-worker Cecilia.

Cecilia is this mild-mannered 25 year old woman who is really soft-spoken unless you say/do something funny, in which case she bursts out in the most genuine and carefree laughter I have ever seen. At work, I noticed that she would always be late and would try to leave as early as possible. She wouldn’t contribute much during our meetings, but if given a specific task she would get it done. I didn’t see the enthusiasm, energy and dedication that I thought you needed to be a good field provider.

Then, I visited her at her home to cook and have lunch with her family. What I saw was this strong African woman who in her 25 years is already much wiser and has seen much more in life than I have. She is the mother of two adorable children and like so many Malawians has lost both parents. So she is taking care of her two younger sisters as well as a baby nephew. She gets up at 4:30am every morning to prepare the house, do laundry, make food, and ready her children for school. Her house looks impressive from the outside – plastered and painted walls, a tin roof, a separated cooking house, and a big yard. When you go inside Cecilia in her element - making some nsima

you find that the walls are made from un-fired bricks that are falling apart; the roof is leaking; the once-expensive cloth on the table is tattered. She inherited the house from her parents and is personally fixing everything in it.

As she takes the nthiko from me to get rid of the lumps I had created in the nsima, she tells me about her desire to build a better house to raise her children in. She wants to learn as much as possible at work so she can gain more skills and make herself more marketable. She has no hesitation doing work traditionally done by men (like fixing her roof). But at the same time she has to make sure there is enough money in the house every day to feed all the people who live with her.

When she is worried about feeding her own family, how can I expect her to stay longer at work to make sure we deliver the best to Dorothy? Maybe what I can do is help her add to her skills and effectiveness field coordinator, so that in the long run she can become more marketable. But in the short-run it may help her perform better at the projects we do have and in that way help Dorothy. Or is my definition of Dorothy too narrow? Maybe Cecilia is my Dorothy too? : LWS End

For the past few weeks I was really focused internally – learning about HVP and the projects, and seeing where I could help. But lately I’ve started looking outside to see what other NGOs are up to. There are several NGOs in the water and sanitation (watsan) sector and one of the most popular projects is bore hole drilling. Although there are some associations designed to coordinate the work of these NGOs, I haven’t personallys seen any collaborations happen on the field with different projects. On a positive note though, I have discovered more about the work of Water For People which is striving hard to create sustainable solutions in the watsan sector. Their strategy is to fund small NGOs and CBOs for different projects, coach them through the project on implementing community-focused solutions and on building organizationally, and eventually try to make them responsible and self-sustaining. And so far, I can see them working in that manner with HVP. It is quite exciting to see a Malawian NGO (they are based in Denver, USA, but the Malawian office is pretty autonomous) taking such an approach.

I also had the chance to meet with a representative of the Dutch organization, SIMAVI, which supports grass-root level NGOs as well. They will be launching a website this summer that will allow Dutch individuals to donate to African NGOs through an online system. I will post an update on this cool initiative this summer. It is amazing how much Denmark, for being such a small country, invests in international development - 2.6 billion USD which is 0.81% of its GDP. As I look at all of the development initiatives the Malawian government is undertaking, with official development assistance (ODA) being about 30% of the GDP, it makes me realize how there are so many programs hinging on receiving aid. Maybe when you write to your MP, you could bring up the fact that Canada should increase its development aid from 0.28% of GDP to its original commitment of 0.7%?

Zikomo po werenga!
(Thanks for reading!)

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Where are the mud huts?

When I set foot on the tarmac at the Lilongwe Airport in Malawi, I was fully braced for all sorts of shocks – culture shock, the shock of cold water bucket baths in the morning, and the shock of the smell of the Lake Malawi fish in the market. What I was not prepared for was the shock of adapting to an urban life in Malawi.

My placement is in the city of Blantyre, which is the commercial capital of Malawi – not quite the African village that most people picture! The roads are littered with swerving mini-buses, callous SUVs, speeding cars, adept Malawians gracefully crossing the streets and the occasional newbie like me looking the wrong way for the traffic (yes, like in the UK, they drive on the left but don’t have large unhelpful signs asking you to look to your right first). The roads themselves mimic the chaos with their unstraightness, non-right angles and with parallel roads meeting up at some point – not unlike some parts of Calgary suburbia. Only thing is, you’ll hear more Chichewa (one of the official languages of Malawi) than English (the other official language of Malawi). The shops on the roadside range anywhere from an Indian-owned textile shop to an Indian-owned auto-parts shop. Yep, Malawi is apparently a popular nesting ground for Indian entrepreneurs, who have created an interesting cultural dynamic that I haven’t yet understood completely. Suffice to say that you’ll find temples and mosques in this country that is known for its devout Christians.

Maize plot on a dirt road within the city of Blantyre

Also on the roadside you’ll find random plots of land growing maize, some as small as 10ft by 10ft!! It is quite the sight – you are walking along the road with a fancy private hospital on one side and a walk-in closet size maize field on the other. Maize (or corn as some of us call it) is the staple food crop in Malawi, and obviously they take it seriously. On an average day you will have maize servings three times a day – maize porridge for breakfast, nsima (a dough-like dish made from maize flour and water) with some relish for lunch, and nsima with some relish for dinner. Between these meals, if you want a snack you can have a corn on the cob or some popcorn from women cooking it over a charcoal stove.

LWS: I have to talk here about the Malawian women – I am sure you have heard several incredible stories about them, but I was still flabbergasted when I saw them for myself. They are these amazing yet intimidating multi-tasking machines with enough muscle to seriously harm you but a smile that makes you feel so welcome. I was loitering around a water tap in an urban village community one day and luckily at that time, there was a water supply. So people were hustling to get all the water they could, while the supply lasted. By people I mean women and young girls ages 5 and above. There were pails and cans of all shapes and sizes. I saw this one young girl walk up with a baby on her back (it’s almost like an accessory – about one in three women I see are carrying a baby and the girls start training in this art at a very early age). She bends down to heave this shallow tub that probably holds over 30 gallons of water and with a friend's help gets it on her head, and then just nimbly walks away. Incredulous, I bend down to pick up a similar tub, and couldn’t even move it! As the women laugh at me, I sheepishly back away from the tub and let its rightful owner deftly pick it up with ease. Just around the corner, I see a woman making nsima, with a baby on her back of course. You can see the muscles in her right arm flexing as she uses a huge wooden spoon, nthiko, to mix this huge vat of maize flour, ufa, mixed with water. The vat is precariously balanced on a charcoal-fired stove, and she holds it steady by holding it with her bare hands! I have burnt myself on more than one occasion trying to imitate that. :LWS end.

So what do I do when I am not stuffing my face with some form of maize flour? I work with a Malawian NGO called Hygiene Village Project, which focuses on promoting sanitation facilities and practices in rural and low-income communities. The project I am involved in is based in the community of Makata, which is sort of an urban village located in the suburbs of Blantyre. It is a sanitation marketing initiative – it is an approach that creates a demand and supply for sanitation facilities within a community. We are doing this by educating the people of Makata about the importance of clean latrines and good hygiene practices, and at the same time training the local artisans (bricklayers, carpenters etc.) on building permanent latrines with a proper system to collect waste. I’ll have more details on my project in the next update. For now, I just want to give you a feel for where I’m working.

Foosball or Microsoccer: Almost as universal as football

Urban villages (I wouldn’t really call them slums because they feel more like a village) are a very interesting entity. Several of the power structures and social dynamics are like a village, but they are highly influenced by their proximity to the city. So you’ll see all these booths selling cell phone cards beside vendors selling freshly butchered goat, just around the corner from a huge British Petroleum or Total gas station. The village chief speaks fluent English, just like his oldest son, who will eventually inherit his position. The houses are made from bricks (fired or unfired depending on what they can afford, and the availability of firewood) with a tin roof. Often there’ll be a tiny room beside the house, about the size of two telephone booths where people will run all sorts of businesses from tailoring to haircutting salons! There are large government-run primary schools with an enrollment of 4000+ students, that have to worry about the water faucets being stolen. And of course, they know more about the behaviour and attitudes of NGO workers than I do! In Makata, I have come across at least 4 different NGO initiatives in my first week there. I even came across a storage box at a school that was donated from the government of Canada, but I couldn’t really figure out the contents. Development work is a major industry here and I am just starting to get a sense of its level of sophistication. I will have more on this too in my later updates.

In the meanwhile, I would love to hear what you are thinking and wondering. If you have a question that you would like to ask a Malawian (an NGO worker, a university student, a 4-year old girl in an urban village, a village chief’s wife …), please post it as a comment or email it to me at

Tsalani bwino!

Tuesday, April 8, 2008


Hi Folks!

Welcome to the page that will serve as my attempt to communicate while I am in Malawi. I will be using this page to record what I learn, to tell the stories I hear/see, and to jot down any other thoughts I might have during my placement. Just to bring you up to speed, here is a little bit of background that hopefully answers some basic questions.

I am doing a 4-month Junior Fellow volunteer placement with Engineers Without Borders in Malawi, a beautiful country flanked by Mozambique, Zambia and Tanzania. EWB is a volunteer organization that focuses on human development using entrepreneurship and innovation, through outreach/education programs in Canada and development projects overseas. As most of you know, I have been involved with our in-Canada programs for about four years doing outreach and communications. I now have this incredible opportunity to work with a Malawian NGO to experience how development is implemented on the ground, and to learn more about the people in the communities that we are working in. I hope to bring back my learnings to Canada and share my experience with people back home. … hence this blog!

Some guidelines for surviving this blog:
1. A long-winded story will be identified with a “LWS” sign, so you can feel free to skip it and read the conclusions.
2. Any suggestions I have for actions you can take back home in Canada will be posted in orange ink.
3. I hope to use this blog as a two-way communication. So please post any questions you may have that you’d like me to investigate while I am here in Malawi – their political systems, water supply, culture, latrine structures…
4. Please remember that everything I say here is based on the small window I have into Malawian life based on what I see and where I am. To get a broader understanding of this great country, please check out the links on the right to the blogs by other volunteers.
5. If you have any feedback or comments please let me know through a post or email me at

Thanks and enjoy the read!